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  • Title: [Determination of 32 oxidative dyes by high performance liquid chromatography and confirmation by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry].
    Author: Zhou Z, Li J, Chen Z, Wu Y, Lu T, Xiao S.
    Journal: Se Pu; 2022 Sep; 40(9):797-809. PubMed ID: 36156626.
    Abstract:
    Various types of oxidative dyes used in hair dye products possess poor stability and have varying frequency of use. Interference problems also frequently arise in actual sample measurements. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a simple, rapid, accurate, and specific method for the determination of common dyes in hair dye products for their effective regulation. In this study, dyes were grouped according to their frequency of use. Using a C18 column that minimizes the silanol effect and influence of metals, the quantitative high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for 32 dyes listed in Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (2015 edition) was optimized, and a high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) confirmatory method for the dyes was established. The samples were extracted using a mixed solution of ethanol-water (1∶1, v/v) with 10 g/L sodium bisulfite solution as an antioxidant, vortexed and mixed, and then extracted by ultrasonication in an ice bath for 10 min. Methanol, acetonitrile, and phosphate buffer were used as the mobile phases in the HPLC analysis. Additionally, two different elution conditions (chromatographic gradient) were used for the separation of 32 oxidative dyes, which were detected at a wavelength of 280 nm. The HPLC separations were compared using columns of particle sizes 5 μm and 2.7 μm; 5 μm C18 columns with better anti-interference and antiblocking ability were selected. Satisfactory separation was achieved for all three commercial C18 columns with a particle size of 5 μm, and the method had good general usability. In condition 1, 17 commonly used dyes and three less commonly used dyes were assigned to group Ⅰ and separated by HPLC; in condition 2, eight banned dyes and four other less commonly used dyes were assigned to group Ⅱ and separated by HPLC. The HPLC-MS/MS method used 5 mmol/L ammonium acetate aqueous solution-acetonitrile and 5 mmol/L acetic acid aqueous solution-acetonitrile as mobile phases in the positive and negative ion modes, respectively. Multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) was performed for qualitative and quantitative analyses in the electrospray ionization mode. Under the examined conditions, six pairs of isomers were well resolved. For the HPLC and HPLC-MS/MS methods, the relative standard deviations (RSDs) of the intra-day precision and 48 h stability tests were less than 10%. The recoveries were between 82.6% and 114.9% (RSD<10%). In the HPLC method, 32 dyes showed good linearity in an approximate range of 10-500 mg/L (r2>0.99), and the limits of detection (LODs) were 9.7-40.1 μg/g. The linear range of hydroquinone in the HPLC-MS/MS method was 2.0-79.7 mg/L, and the LOD was 8.0 μg/g; the linear ranges of the other components were approximately 0.1-4 mg/L, and the LODs were 0.01-0.4 μg/g. The actual samples were simultaneously measured by HPLC, HPLC-MS/MS, and the standard method. Finally, 16 of the 32 dyes were detected, and the detected contents ranged from 58 to 25160 μg/g. The RSDs of the results obtained from the three detection methods were between 1.9% and 10.1%. All detected components were within the limits of group Ⅰ of this method. In comparison with methods reported in the literature and the standard method, this method covers all components for the routine regulatory inspection of oxidative dyes in cosmetics. The method can separate the commonly used dyes under the same HPLC conditions and avoid interference from 15 other commonly used dyes during the analysis of actual samples. A suitable HPLC-MS/MS confirmatory method was also established for the identification of currently unknown substances in the statutory inspection of cosmetics. The method is simple, rapid, accurate, and specific with general usability and good operability. 染发类产品中氧化型染料种类多,实际样品测定时干扰多,建立染发类产品中多种常用染料的测定方法,为该类产品的有效监管提供技术手段十分必要。该研究根据染料使用频率分组,采用能够屏蔽硅羟基和金属离子影响的C18柱,优化了《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)中32种染料的高效液相色谱法(HPLC)并建立了高效液相色谱-串联质谱(HPLC-MS/MS)确证方法。样品以10 g/L亚硫酸氢钠水溶液为抗氧化剂,用无水乙醇-水(1∶1, v/v)混合溶液冰浴超声提取10 min。HPLC方法采用甲醇、乙腈和磷酸盐缓冲液为流动相分两个液相色谱条件进行梯度洗脱分离,于280 nm波长下检测,其中一个HPLC条件中的相互干扰组分均在另一个HPLC条件下完全分离,避免了实际样品检测时组分间的干扰,并排除了32种以外的其他15种常用染料的干扰。HPLC-MS/MS方法分别采用5 mmol/L乙酸铵水溶液-乙腈和5 mmol/L乙酸水溶液-乙腈为正离子和负离子模式下的流动相,电喷雾离子模式下用多反应监测(MRM)模式进行定性和定量分析。HPLC和HPLC-MS/MS两个方法中,日内精密度和48 h内稳定性的相对标准偏差(RSD)<10%,回收率为82.6%~114.9%(RSD<10%)。HPLC方法中32种染料在大约10~500 mg/L范围内线性关系良好(r2>0.99),检出限为9.7~40.1 μg/g; HPLC-MS/MS方法中氢醌线性范围为2.0~79.7 mg/L,检出限为8.0 μg/g,其他组分线性范围约为0.1~4 mg/L,检出限为0.01~0.4 μg/g。采用HPLC、HPLC-MS/MS两个方法和《化妆品安全技术规范》方法同时测定实际样品,共检出16种染料,检出含量范围为58~25160 μg/g。3个方法检测结果的RSD为1.9%~10.1%。该研究增加了HPLC-MS/MS确证方法,适应化妆品法定检验中的未知物确认程序;方法简便快速,结果准确,专属性强,具有较好的通用性和可操作性。
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